As I was riding the subway home today I was wondering what else I could write about. I thought that maybe writer's block was going to take over, but all I needed was the poorly dressed pedestrians standing around me to give me motivation. The topic this time: tie length and knot style.
If you are a normal male that wears a tie, chances are that you know one knot. And that knot was most likely the one that your father (or other adult figure... or college roommate) taught you to tie when you finally needed to learn. There are, actually, several styles of knots to tie depending on the look you are going for and the collar style on the dress shirt. Here are some general tie rules and guidelines.
- Learn at least the 3 basic knots (The four-in-hand, the half-windsor and the windsor) These knots can be learned from a variety of websites or books.
- The bigger the knot, the wider the collar on the shirt should be (i.e. don't wear a windsor knot with a button-down collar).
- Keep in mind the material and thickness of the tie that you are using. A thin vintage tie creates a much smaller knot than a 7-fold silk tie. You may have to change tactics after a couple tries if you can't get it to work.
- Please, please, please take into consideration the dimple of the tie. The single dimple is the most classic but remember to keep it centered. The key is to start the dimple before you cinch the knot closed. In my opinion, the only other acceptable dimple variation is the double dimple... or what the Italians refer to as "la sorchetta." Once again, remember to center.
- While your girlfriend or wife might think it's fun to tie your tie for you, don't let her do it. It just makes you look childlike. If she's offended, tell her that they are much more fun to take off.
Having just given more rules than you thought possible, let's not forget the second part of this post: tie length. If I see someone with a tie that is too long or too short I immediately assume that they are lazy. Lazy, you say? Why lazy? Well, my reader, a perfectly tied tie takes a few tries... so if they didn't bother to keep trying then they are just lazy. The key is to get the tip of the tie within the "perfect zone". Ideally, the left and right corners of the tie should just brush the top of the belt when you are standing straight with your shoulders back.
The only other acceptable way is to have the center tip touch the top part of the belt buckle.... thus making the tie a little shorter. On a final note, if wearing a sweater or vest, you may tie your tie shorter so that it doesn't peek out from under the top garment. Final verdict: these little tweaks may not seem like much, but they can instantly supercharge your style. It's the subtle things that set the truly fashionable apart from the aspiring.
P.S. - for the love of all that is good, do NOT tie neckwear and then leave it tied just so you can slip it on and off over your head. This damages the construction and will eventually leave permanent creases.
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